Evaluation

To conclude my ‘Redheads And Royalty’ project all together I have enjoyed the working progress and the different tasks it has sprung upon myself. I feel hair is something I’ve always had an interest in but I never felt I could explore as much as I have done within this project. Firstly the practical sessions learning basic skills such as platting, buns, curling, crimping were all things I was used to doing on myself so taking the basic skills I already had but on a dolls mannequin head was quite easy for me. Although when it came to using rats/padding and more advanced technical skills I found it quite a challenge at first. When I moved on to working with my partners real hair instead of the mannequins I felt more confident and feel my skills have grown and progressed thoroughly throughout this unit. 

When we were told we had to design a look for a ‘contemporary Elizabethan’ I was really excited to get researching different sources. I feel I’ve made a range of different paths which have helped me to understand and develop my final design idea. I’ve taken note from films, catwalk shows, website images, tv shows, magazines, artists work and wig makers work. I feel that taking inspiration from many different sources has really made my design what it is. 

Working on my partners hair brief was to start with a little tricky. She firstly did her design on my hair so I knew what look she wanted. Her design was a messy heart shaped up do’ which was high fashion. Her design was really interesting as she’d taken something periodic into a modern feel using backcombing and messiness. I found it hard at the beginning to recreate my partners design as she has very thick soft hair, its extremely straight so it was a little stubborn to restyling and shaping the hair. I did find however using heat on a higher temperature worked really well for my models hair. I felt like we both worked as a team really well throughout the task and was most pleased with how she studied my design and placed it onto my hair effortlessly. 

Bibliography

Elizabeth the Golden Age Hair images found on: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=elizabeth+the+golden+age&es_sm=91&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=IQx_VIbvGOOs7AaZ4oDgCA&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1280&bih=728#tbm=isch&q=elizabeth+the+golden+age+hair&facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=6PXXM7M_yxZG7M%253A%3BNHcbQa1-Ao-BxM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fm5.paperblog.com%252Fi%252F25%252F250074%252Ffabulous-filmic-fashion-friday-elizabeth-the--L-D9rtah.png%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fen.paperblog.com%252Ffabulous-filmic-fashion-friday-elizabeth-the-golden-age-250074%252F%3B567%3B400

Adam James Phillips info: http://www.imdb.com/name/nm5976959/bio?ref_=nm_ov_bio_sm

http://adamjamesphillips.com/

http://www.creative-media-skills.com/exclusive-qa-downton-abbey-hair-stylist-talks-us-training-trade-triumph-emmy-awards/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jenny_Shircore


http://wigshairmakeup.com/opera/

Malificent: http://insidemovies.ew.com/2014/03/14/angelina-jolie-qa-maleficent/

Elizabeth- film info from: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0414055/fullcredits?ref_=tt_ql_1

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/My_Week_with_Marilyn#mediaviewer/File:My_Week_with_Marilyn_Poster.jpg

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=the+young+victoria&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=684&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=6kl_VOm5K6je7AaX1IGwAg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg#tbm=isch&q=the+young+victoria+movie&facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=eoj47J8WJxg7aM%253A%3BXOpASzz7GYg40M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252F3.bp.blogspot.com%252F-WLkA5wosGcc%252FUWRtQRcJOPI%252FAAAAAAAAHKA%252F7aB3qyBKNjE%252Fs1600%252Fthe%252Byoung%252Bvictoria%252B06.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fhistoryandotherthoughts.blogspot.com%252F2013%252F04%252Fmovie-review-young-victoria.html%3B1280%3B800

Information of Jenny Shircore: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jenny_Shircore

90's inspired hair: https://belfash.wordpress.com/

Head Braids found on: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=plaited+hair&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=728&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=dnl_VLGREuSM7AbX6YHYDw&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ#tbm=isch&q=crown+plait&facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=tbsHfgov3ZNkeM%253A%3Bx5WsaYm1YmGBKM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.hairromance.com%252Fwp-content%252Fuploads%252F2012%252F09%252FHair-Romance-30-braids-30-days-22-the-Dutch-crown-braid.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.hairromance.com%252F2013%252F08%252Fwhats-the-difference-between-a-french-braid-and-a-dutch-braid.html%3B600%3B903

Marie Claire: http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/blogs/545746/7-hair-trends-you-need-to-know-for-aw14.html

Heart shaped hair: http://www.parents.com/blogs/goodyblog/2011/02/a-sweet-heart-braid-for-valentines-day/

Final ideas inspiration photos:
http://media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/78/2b/9b/782b9b9e123921ec327bfdebc4f87072.jpg

http://www.znnw.com/archives/sometimes-ghost-enchanting-make-up-a-large-palace-of-drama-in-the-eyes-photo/

http://uk.pinterest.com/pin/366128644681230432/

http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/originals/f4/d4/e6/f4d4e69aa319cbbd475c958e79b7381a.jpg


Artists:
Armada Portrait:

1. Artist: George Gower
2. Location: Woburn Abbey
3. Created: 1588
4. Media: Oil paint, Oak

Videos: 

Alexandra McQueen 2007 SS fashion show: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDId5vLpgU4

Play: Elizabeth Rexhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_Rex

Books: Allison Lowery- Historical Wig Styling: Ancient History to the 1830s Published: 2013 Page 16

The Royal Doctors, (2001) 1485-1714: Medical Personnel at the Tudor and Stuart Courts: (Elizabeth  Lane Furdell)

Ages Of Elegance-Auther Bryant -1975

Final Assessment My Partners Design

The final assessment was a task to create your own design of a contemporary Elizabethan look.  My partner showed me her final designs and these were practised on her twice before the final assessment. Her look was an interesting look which was a more messy and contemporary version of the heart shape that Elizabeth would've worn. My models hair is red with brown eyes which helped when it came to the final look to look even more Elizabethan. My partners design had four french braids going across the hairline at the front with large backcombed quiffs this was meant to look messy so it had a modern feel.

The techniques I used to create this were platting, backcombing, frizzing and crimping. 

The whole entire back was crimped with the top section of the loose hair at the back being frizzed using the frizzing technique. I then backcombed the back even more to create more volume and shape. 

Overall me and my partner worked well together to get our final outcomes. We were both punctual and worked well as a team to make sure our designs were exactly how we wanted them to be. I'm please with the outcome of my own practical as it was a lot more symmetrical than it had been in the past practices. I love the final image shots as I feel my model had a strong look which really showed through these images. The only thing I would've done to change the assessment was to use more frizzing at the back section but otherwise I'm really happy with my results. The task was fun and I enjoyed being the model and designer and also the role of being a hair artist to complete my partners design. 

Final Assessment- Hair Outcome

The final assessment for hair went really well. We had to give instruction and designs for our partners to follow. My partner did her assessment on me and I was really happy with the outcome. We've previously practiced and I found that my partner followed my design ideas thoroughly. Here was my design proposal:

Items needed for the timed assessment:

Babyliss curlers for large crimps and pin curls at the front
Bobby pins and grips
Backcombing brush
Dry shampoo for decoration
Hairspray

Order of hairstyle:

Firstly section the hair to around the mid point of the crown down to the back of the ears. Pin away the front section which we'll come back to a little later.

Then heat up the Babyliss large curlers that look like this:

Start to section the hair into small sections to be suitable to go into the crimpers. Start at the top of the hair and go down holding the crimpers onto the hair for around 5 sections each time, be cautious of the top of the head. Hairspray each section before and after this process. 

Once the hair is fully crimped start to work on the front section. 

Section the hair line into a middle parting using a pin tale comb to section the start of the hair line to be around 1.5/2inches thick, clip this away for later.

The next section is for the decorating, this will need to be crimped in the same way as the back of the hair.

Pin this away and use the two sections to backcomb, we need this to be our padding area so make sure to thoroughly backcomb this part. 

Roll the backcombed section and the decoration crimped section with each other to create your padded volume sections. Secure with pins thoroughly so that it holds. 

Start to section the front of the hair each side (it'll be in a middle parting) into 3 even sections, wrap the hair into the tong this time like you would with a normal curler this time, it should come out to be a springy textured curl to twist onto itself, secure this with thin pins so that the pins don't show. 

Do this step to the outer and end pin curls.

In the middle section of both sides, plat the hair downwards and wrap into a pin curl.

Spray with hairspray. Spray down any flyaway hairs/baby hairs.

Use dry shampoo directly to the middle platted pin curl for decoration.

The final look will be complete. 

The pin curls were meant to look like roses to relate to the latest fashion trend of adding flowers on to pretty much anything as seen in Vogue. The middle pin curl/rose was a platted rose which showed a different technique, it also used decoration of a frosted white on it to be a contemporary version of Elizabethan hair, this was relating to Elizabeths very pale snow white skin; it reminded me of snow.

I was impressed with the evenness of the hair. It was overall very sucsessful in terms of symmetry. 

There are quite a few flyaway hairs however which picked up on camera which I would've changed. 

The concept of the curls is meant to look like giant crimps relating to an Avant Guard style which I have included in a photo at the end of this post. The crimp follows on top of the padded area which is something I really wanted to show up on camera which it did. 

Hairspray was used very much for this look to keep the curls together for a more structured look. 

I found the assessment a little stressful for my partner as she had to be super organised and keep checking on the time, but she did very well but had a little difficulty when we were told '5 more minutes' so had to rush the pin curls just slightly. Otherwise I feel she really got the concept of my design. Overall the task was very fun, I enjoyed being the designer and the model. 

Research: Jenny Shircore

Jenny is a makeup artist and hair designer who has been awarded with winning 'the Academy Award for Best Makeup for her work in Elizabeth. She won a British Academy Film Award in 2010 for her work in The Young Victoria.' 

Shircore also worked on a film called 'My Week With Marylin' I find it especially interesting how Jenny has worked on the hair and makeup for more of the historical films which are some iconic women. She did a really good job at transforming people into these inspirational iconic women. Jenny said she used to watch hours of footage of Marylin's films to get her inspiration to make an exact reflection of Marylin's persona into someone else.

Her makeup and wig design in the film 'Elizabeth' is astonishing and I love how creative she was when designing the wigs. They really reflect on Queen Elizabeth and I think that creating a hair example to be really similar to Queen Elizabeths is a really difficult task as we only see her from portraiture and there are no images of the actual Elizabeth. I hope to create something which can relate to Elizabeth in a more contemporary way.

Research: Adam James Phillips & Elizabeth 'The Golden Age' Film Review

Adam is a hairstylist who works in the film and TV industry. He was self taught but after having some training doing a course at the Musical Theatre ArtsEd London he discovered he had a passion for hair styling, I wanted to look into Adam's work to find out more about his previous work to inspire me with my current and upcoming projects. I originally found out Adam worked on the set of Downtown Abbey. Although I was later to find out that he worked on 'Elizabeth The Golden Age' which is perfect to relate to my current project.  Adam is also famous for his work on Captin America, The Imitation Game and Malificent. I find this range of different films interesting as The imitation Game and Captin America seem to have similar hair and makeup looks.

This is the charater from Captain America which shows the same similar hair style to the Imitation game photo down below:

Refrence: http://www.imdb.com/name/nm5976959/bio?ref_=nm_ov_bio_sm

Here is an image of Malificent which Adam also worked on. Strangely, Malificent reminds me of Queen Elizabeth in a strange way. They both have a large amount of power, strength and they're both influential in character. Malificent makeup isn't that far off Elizabeths either and I would consider her a contemporary style of Elizabeth. She wears black which is a colour of richness, she wears red lips which tudor women would try to create, has brown eyes and an extreemly pale snow white complexion. I find it interesting finding characters which could be related to be a 'New Elizabethan'. I find it interesting how Malificent has such an amazing head piece too. In the film Elizabeth they have extravagant wigs and Adam was working on both sets so this shows the talent in the hair department of these films. I hope to research many more Wig makers/Hair stylists to get inspiration for my project. Reference for image:
http://insidemovies.ew.com/2014/03/14/angelina-jolie-qa-maleficent/

I've inserted some images found on: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=elizabeth+the+golden+age&es_sm=91&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=IQx_VIbvGOOs7AaZ4oDgCA&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1280&bih=728#tbm=isch&q=elizabeth+the+golden+age+hair&facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=6FSuMM27DiyE8M%253A%3BmVbjzcyd8I5HiM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fmedia-cache-ak0.pinimg.com%252F236x%252F92%252F93%252Ffa%252F9293faa473c88c858ae17031c9a06000.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.pinterest.com%252FArzciMondragon%252Fvintage-gowns%252F%3B236%3B318


I've viewed some images to get a feel of what the hairstyles/wigs were like in the film, I found them so amazing and very artistic, the hair team really got to grips with how the Elizabethans wore their hair.

Jenny Shircore was also a hair and makeup designer in this film. (A blog post follows on Jenny)


This image shows Elizabeth wearing a green gown with her hair in a V shape at the front. I find the hairstyle really interesting firstly because of the shape and how structured the angle is and also because of how neat and tidy it is. All these styles are made out of wigs but still, there are no hairs out of place and this seems very Elizabethan because you would always see her polished hair never messy or anything in her portraiture. This shows royalty and how well looked after she was.

This image shows Elizabeth holding a feathered fan in one of the scenes. She wears a pink ruff which elongates round to the back of her neck. The hair in this scene is quite volumes with lots of pincurls. In my plan I want pin curls at the front of the hair but in a contemporary way to give it that new edge to the hair for my design.  

I love this look featured in the film. The global dress designed by Alexandra Byrne which I thought was so cleaver as at the time the renaissance was going on and Elizabeth had power over many countries as if shes wearing it to mark her spot. Her hair is huge and the wig shows pearls coming through with diamantes and a designed detail which matches the dress which I found a nice touch, this is typically what Elizabeth used to be seen wearing (matching hair to costume).

Another style I especially liked in the film was a character other than Elizabeth, her maid wore a detailed ruff made from lace which I really like. The hair is very soft looking and not as harsh as Elizabeths styles, maybe being not as rich and not wearing a wig possibly. I like how the soft curls are in a middle parting turning into a heart shaped front. 

My own film review on the film 'Elizabeth the Golden Age':

"Today we watched 'Elizabeth' starring Cate Blanchett. The film was action packed and I really enjoyed seeing the fast paced movie. The character of Elizabeth was incredibly strong and Cate definitely acted how we would've imagined the real Elizabeth. She was a feisty, bossy character and she portrayed her royal role well.

The makeup used on the film was very minimal using natural flushed cheeks, very pale skin (but still looking natural), thinned out eyebrows which looked dyed blonde. The other characters in the film also wore very similar makeup to Elizabeth. The hair in the film was very extravagant and I love the different unique looks used on each character. There were very big quiffs, heart shaped designs, lots of use of buns, plats and twists. They also accessorised the hair well like the Elizabethan era using pearls and gems in the hair. At one point Elizabeth wore a feathered collar from her head which was very effective and mirrored her clothing which was what Elizabeth used to do all the time in her portraits. The dress's were traditional Elizabethan tudor dresses using petty coats, caging and ruffs with a square neck. The dress designs really inspired me as they made it believable we could be watching the real era. The costume designer was Alexandra Byrne who has designed the clothing in many other films too including Hamlet and the Phantom Of The Opera. The design work is very periodic and she shines through in this movie due to the accurate styling. The men are traditionally dressed using the colours black and white wearing ruffs and long socks with pointed shoes. The poor looked extremely tanned in the film and the rich seemed to be very pale like Elizabeth. This would be looked at in tudor times as being normal as the poor would work outside and gain a suntan.

Overall the film was good because of the action and story line was twisted from what actually happened in reality. The styling won a BAFTA (Alexandra Byrne) award and I strongly feel the styling and hair was exactly right for the century they were filming for."

Research: Georgia O'Keefe Abstraction White Rose

I've been looking at a couple of artists and stumbled across a classic painter who is Georgia O'Keeffe, she's typically famous for her still life drawings being mainly skulls or flowers. She is a feminist artist who reaches many boundaries in her paintings with underlying meanings. This painting of the 'Abstraction White Rose' really remind me of how I want the pin curls at the front of my design to be. I knoe its slightly unusual to relate a painting to a piece of hair but I found this painting shows depth of texture as if you can see right into the flower bud, and this is how I want the front of the hair to reflect. I really like the white rose effect too so may incorporate a little white spray onto the flowers at the front of my hair design. 

Final Hair Design

Here are my notes and designs for my partner to read for my final assessment. I wanted the notes to be very clear so my partner was very confident at pulling off the final look. 

Research: Key Reading

Today I looked at a number of different books to research the Elizabethan Era, I'm already really getting to know the era well and feel more confident creating looks now that I know more about the times and Elizabeth herself. Research is a great way to explore yourself and different projects. I find it helps my ideas progress and develop.

Further from this I found a book called 'Ages Of Elegance' the 'ruff' was talked about as being an appearance discreetly found in 1540. Black had been made fashionable in Italy at the time so the white ruff was seen as a great way to liven things up. A ruffled shape was also used at the end of a shirts sleeve for a touch of added detail similar to the ruff. Later on the book explains that in 1557 the ruff was popular and each country had its own individual ruff. e.g. Spain was known to have higher/thicker material at the top of the neck.

I found another book called: 'Historical Wig Styling: Ancient History to the 1830s' By Allison Lowery this book had a great step to step guide on how to style wigs, I looked through and it was really interesting to see all the different techniques used in different periods of time. On page 16 I found a piece about how to pin curl. The guide showed exactly how to get the most effective pin curl without showing grips. In this image they showed how you can use a round stick to create a pin curl. It almost shows how you can use a figure of eight design to get the pin curls to face different ways.

The Royal Doctors, 1485-1714: Medical Personnel at the Tudor and Stuart Courts: (Elizabeth  Lane Furdell) Quote from the book: "When Elizabeth began to loose her hear steadily after the age of twenty-five, Hemingway made pomades and salves. His unguents did not stop her hair loss, so she changed her hairstyle in 1644 and wore curls to cover the front of her bald head" 
This source was really interesting to read as it shows how Elizabeth and her team tried very hard to come together to make her hair in a better condition but due to dying it with saffron there was no going back and her being so young and her hair falling out left her to have to cover her forehead with curls. I have included curls at the front of my hairline in my design, this is something that relates to the fact that Elizabeth was trying to hide her baldness.